Planning a visit to China? We suggest you try your hardest to make Lhasa part of your itinerary. We would also suggest you do it sooner than later before the old Lhasa, full of Buddhist tradition and history is completely unrecognizable due to Chinese development.
We were lucky to find loopholes (in 2007) to get into Lhasa as independent travelers, something we aren't quite sure you can do nowadays with ever tightening restrictions on the area by the Chinese government. At the time, we found the easiest place to try and obtain the proper paperwork to get into Tibet was through different hostels in Chengdu. We did have to spend some time asking around before being directed to certain hostels that would be able to "arrange" the proper paperwork for us.
We were lucky enough to get our paperwork finished with no issues and be one of the first foreigners to take the newly opened train to Lhasa (an experience in itself). The opening of this train set a new record as the world's highest railway, reaching a high point of 5, 072 meters above sea level. And no, we luckily did not have to use the extra oxygen that was available on the train.
Being on our own in Tibet was eye opening. Locals were much more open to talking with and approaching you than if you traveled with a tour group. The ability to mix and mingle with Buddhist monks and Tibetan nomads on their pilgrimage is an authentic experience that unfortunately, many independent travelers may not get to experience again due to Chinese restrictions in this region.
However, independent travelers tend to be a persistent bunch and in China, there always seems to be a loophole for everything. It just depends on how hard you look and the connections you make.
Some Tips:
Chengdu was the best place to find a hostel that could arrange paperwork for us to get into Tibet as independent travelers. Things may be different today, but don't forget to talk to other backpackers as they are often a wealth of information.
If you have to take a tour, take some time to look for a tour run by Tibetans. When we were ready to continue our travel from Lhasa, overland to Nepal, we went with a Tibetan run company. A Tibetan run company will get you access to the Tibetan culture that you can't get with a Chinese tour operator.
As with any travel experience, don't forget to mix with the locals. When you leave yourself open to being a part of the local community, your experience is always more authentic and memorable.
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